By Kiali Wong
Voices

Slow Bar B Q’s Triple Threat Pork is stuffed with applewood bacon, pulled pork and ham. Kiali Wong | Voices
College foodies can be easy to spot. Their pockets may be a little lighter, a little emptier. Their eyes light up when free food is announced. And a good meal always tends to rival the Last Supper.
I arrived in Detroit, straight from moving into a new dorm at Arizona State University, to find a new Last Supper. And Slows Bar B Q surpassed my hopes Tuesday night.
The restaurant’s charm was instant. An alluring aroma soaked the air, like the barbecue sauce doused over one of Slows’ popular sandwiches.
Helen Kwong, a convention attendee and Detroit-area native, was able to make a reservation for our group of 11 AAJA folks. We’d all answered an email that Kwong sent via the convention listserv about grabbing dinner at Slows on Tuesday.
The wait was brief before we were whisked away to the outdoor patio. It was quieter and retained a disappointing dab of the buzz we’d just left. Back inside, noises in the open space bounced from one wood surface to the next. The din, however, was a pleasant blare and felt like a trademark element of the Motown barbecue darling.
But the alfresco option was more ideal for our AAJA group to get acquainted or, for some, catch up with old friends.
The menu was a tour of Southern fare. Apple BBQ sauce. Special onion marmalade. Cornmeal “tempura” for deep-fried catfish.
Each dish made me wish I was dining on someone else’s dime so that I could eat more.
Ten minutes later, Slows’ Special Purpose burger emerged. A half-pound burger with smoked gouda, applewood bacon and sweet sauce sounded like bliss. No onion toppings for me — just can’t stand cooked tear-jerkers.
I grinned at its height. Forget the optional Texas toast. I recommend the poppy seed kaiser roll for housing Slows’ decadent burger.
My first bite was — perfect.
The smoked flavors of the gouda and bacon were a rich supporting cast for the star: the beef. I’d ordered the patty to be well done, which can translate to, “Well, dry.” But Slows is above such common follies. The meat was juicy. The sauce was tangy sweet. And crowning it all was the kaiser roll, a light backdrop to the other ingredients’ heft.
The last bite found its way to my mouth just as the sunlight was waning at our outdoor dinner party. And with that, the magic ebbed. I’d eaten a most satisfying burger. I’d had a Last Supper three nights into my stay in Detroit.
Nicely done, Slows, Nicely done.
(Note: If you plan to visit Slows, go en masse. The joint takes reservations for groups of six or more. Go to slowsbarbq.com, or call 313-962-9828.)
Follow Kiali Wong @kialiwong.





